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The disc brake conversion is one of the simplest upgrades to do. The toughest part is the bleeding at the end of the job, but if you follow the simple rules it will work out fine.

First, I used the calipers for an Elderado made by TSM and compliments of Joey at 4wdFactory.

Make sure you get all the parts needed for the install.

Caliper brackets
Calipers (Eldarado rears w/ebrake arm or 3/4 front calipers from a chevy pickup)
New brake lines
Wheel studs



To get started pull the wheel off and start removing the bolts that hold the axle in place.

Once the axle is pulled out you will need to bend the tabs up on the lock ring. Then get a spanner wrench and remove the first retainer, behind that a lock ring, then another retainer. The drum and hub will slide right off.









Once your down to the drum brake parts you can get after removing everything. Loosen the brake line on the back and pull it back out of the way. Dont break or cut the ebrake cable. You will need it if you purchased Elderado calipers.



Once you get all of the brake parts out you can un-bolt the backing plate a get it pulled off. Next you can go ahead and get yourseld a small sledge with a brass drift to pound the wheel studs out. Once the studs are out the drum and the hub will be seperated.



Now you going to start the re assembly with the new parts in reverse order. One note-get new bearing seals and put them in. They can be driven in with a 2x4 and a hammer.

So get the disc and place it over the hub. You can either drive the new wheel studs in, or have them pressed in. Make sure your get them seated firmly. (never use the lugnuts to suck the stud through).

Bolt the disc brake braket on in place of the backing plate. The bracket should be rolled twords the back at about a 45* angle. Assemble the hub, rotors and calipers in a loose fashion. This mock up will give you and idea of where your lines need to run.





NOTE: The picture above has the calipers mounted in the normal fashion. I switched sides to make it much easier to hook up the lines and I would not have my ebrake cable coming under the axle. This will put the bleeders pointing down. When you go to bleed the system when they are installed this way you will need to pull the caliper off and roll it forward on the disc. This will put the bleeder pointing up to get all the air out of the lines.

After you get the mock up done you can start tightening things up. I built a bracket and bolted it to the back of the brake bracket to hold my lines and ebrake.





Now you can do the same to the other side. Once that is done, its time to move on to the master cylinder and proportioning valve.

The master cylinder is an easy swap. I used a newer larger MC do to the volume the new discs would need. You can also use a 70s vette MC or go for the big dog and get a 99 van P30 MC (this thing is huge with a 1.5" bore). If you use the P30 it is reccomended that you go to Hydro boost rather than having vaccum.

Here is the old and new Master





A bench bleed kit is cheap for getting all the air out of the MC. This not an option when you go to a new MC. You can mount it on the truck and put the bleed lines on(make sure your level) When using the pedal, do it slowly until there are no more bubbles.

I went to a disc/disc proportioning valve. The original set up with drums puts about 80% braking power to the rear. This will keep you from locking the back up. You want the front to lock before the back. Some people do not change this or use an adjustable proportioning valve. You just need to figure out what will work best for how you drive and your off road style.

The proportioning valve is located on the front fram crossmember under your radiator. The new one will bolt right into place and all of the lines were the same.




Once everything is in place you can fill the MC and start the bleeding process. Remember that whether you use a pressure bleeder or do it the old fashion way of pumping the pedal - always start furthest from the MC, then work your way to the wheel closest to the MC. I bled the fronts as well because of the change in the P-valve.

You may have some long travel, this could be due to the MC not having a big enough bore, air still in the lines or issues with a vaccume booster. I had the same issue and it took about 5 to 6 rounds of bleeding to get the pedal firmed up.

Here is the final pic of the brakes installed, notice how the e-brake cable installed into perfect position. You do not need to keep the spring on the cable as I did, they can be cut off with a small dremel cut off wheel. The TSM springs will do all the work you need.



Thanks to Joey at 4wdFactory, The parts they sell for this conversion are high quality and fit absolutely perfect. I highly reccomend Joey for all your needs during this upgrade or any other for that matter.

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Comments *

1) Re: 14 Bolt FF Rear Disc brake conversion
Written by BLACKBURB on Oct 18, 10, 09:43 PM
do you have part #'s and price list?
2) Re: 14 Bolt FF Rear Disc brake conversion
Written by SlvrEagl on Oct 22, 12, 05:52 PM
Great write up! Ive had a few people ask what proportion valve you went with, was it a direct bolt in?
3) Re: 14 Bolt FF Rear Disc brake conversion
Written by Skin - K5 on Oct 23, 12, 10:19 PM
Sorry for being slow guys.

Blackburb, I do not have a part numbers or prices. I do know that 4wd Factory should be able to set you up with the exact stuff I bought. The calipers are the spendy part at about 4 to 500. You can use regular truck calipers if you have another idea for an ebrake.

Slvreagle - I used a disk disk Pvalve I purchased from Brake Systems Inc. Yes the valve bolted right in.
4) Re: 14 Bolt FF Rear Disc brake conversion
Written by 0 on Nov 15, 13, 11:42 PM
Nice, what's the price of parts
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